fw09/10 couture week - day three

"no extravagance is necessary.  and most are tacky."

- valentino garavani

valentino couture fw09/10

valentino couture fw09/10

valentino couture fw09/10

valentino couture fw09/10

exquisitely subtle lace appliqué on faux shoulder strap

jean paul gaultier couture fw09/10

jean paul gaultier couture fw09/10

la mariée

jean paul gaultier couture fw09/10

jean paul gaultier couture fw09/10

no more square nails!!

elie saab couture fw09/10

elie saab couture fw09/10

la mariée

elie saab couture fw09/10

elie saab couture fw09/10

chanel haute couture ss09

franscesco scognamiglio ss09

day three served up a veritable mixed platter of clothing and opinions.  valentino, now in the hands of ex-accessory heads maria grazia chiuri and pier paolo piccioli,  presented a sum of black lace which appeared less interesting than the detail of its parts.  jean paul gaultier won for his creativity - there was something for every woman (peta-supporter or not) in his collection.  elie saab does not seem to be aware of his peers - karl lagerfeld staged an all-white production this january at the very same location whilst images of milanese francesco scognamiglio's ss09 bird eyes from last september came fluttering back.  some budding design contestants have been proud to tell heidi, michael and nina on project runway they simply do not pay attention to what other people are doing.  listen to the backlash and learn, my friends.  all photographs care of style.

fw09/10 couture week - day two

"haute couture should be fun, foolish and almost unwearable."

- christian lacroix

chanel haute couture fw09/10

chanel haute couture fw09/10

la mariée

chanel haute couture fw09/10

qin shu pei

chanel haute couture fw09/10

armani privé fw09/10

armani privé fw09/10

armani privé fw09/10

la mariée

armani privé fw09/10

and the bride wore a jumpsuit..

givenchy couture fw09/10

givenchy couture fw09/10

la mariée (one of three)

givenchy couture fw09/10

givenchy couture fw09/10

colour applied on the spot

(armani used wigs instead)

christian lacroix couture fw09/10

christian lacroix couture fw09/10

christian lacroix couture fw09/10

la mariée

christian lacroix couture fw09/10

day two was more sombre as designers showed mainly black with midnight, brunette do's and much less skin than usual.  lacroix's imminent departure from the haute couture world also loomed heavy, like the rain clouds in the dark, parisian sky.  suiting was everywhere (recycle your trophy jackets!!) - be it in skirt or trouser form - as were liquid-like paillette embellishments - on everything from jackets to gowns.  and not a leg remained uncovered by some form of sheer hose.  hello to chinese model qin shu pei on the chanel catwalk.  weren't her braids divine?  all photographs care of style.

fw09/10 couture week - day one

"a designer who is not also a couturier, who hasn’t learned the most refined mysteries of physically creating his models, is like a sculptor who gives his drawings to another man, an artisan, to accomplish.  for him, the truncated process of creating will always be an interrupted act of love, and his style will bear the shame of it, the impoverishment."

- yves saint laurent

christian dior couture fw09/10

christian dior couture fw09/10

christian dior couture fw09/10

la mariée

christian dior couture fw09/10

christian dior couture fw09/10

alexis mabille couture fw09/10

alexis mabille couture fw09/10

alexis mabille couture fw09/10

alexis mabille couture fw09/10

alexis mabille couture fw09/10

vintage underwear as modern eveningwear seemed to be the trend as paris couture week kicked off yesterday.  john galliano took the house of dior back to its roots showing at the label's flagship on 30 avenue montaigne.  it tied in fittingly with the designer's inspiration - half-dressed couture models being fitted before the 1947 "new look" show.  the visible suspenders and pantyhose were so chic but playful at the same time, hence, very galliano.  alexis mabille did not disappoint with his signature bowties also adopting a more feminine take for fall.  lace trim on delicate satins were reminiscent of 1950's petticoats and cami-knickers.  on a beauty note: stop plucking those eyebrows!!  caterpillars are back.  all photographs care of vogue.